viernes, 8 de diciembre de 2006

From Cambodia to Vietnam


To arrive to Vietnam for the first time was fantastic, mainly because Cambodia depresses for its poverty, and the color is something between red and brown, girls requesting money in street, people sleeping in the Tuk Tuk and Cyclos stop to begin the new day looking for some client, "buhoneros" in Caracas are nothing to do in comparison with those of Cambodia. The majority, including children of five year olds, speak English to be able to sell something to tourists… Vietnam, or Saigon at least, is green, and one feels the difference. Even it is the country in Asia that has grown economically faster, the poverty is also present, but is different that in Cambodia. In Saigon I was in a guesthouse called Lucky, Lucky, and I noticed that almost everything here and in Cambodia has to do with the luck or good fortune… I paid 15 dollars, that is already a fortune for what I paid in Cambodia, and not of luck indeed,. But the room was well comfortable. That afternoon, after going to the river, I had lunch near the river and joking with a Vietnamese girl testing my qualities with the language (aside from the amount of signs that sometimes I use to communicate), I was invited by her to know part of Saigon the following day, before she had to go to work at 11 AM … The following morning, the girl was exactly at 8 o’clock at the door of the hotel in a super motorcycle… I must let you know that in Saigon they must have about 4 million inhabitants, and at least 3 million motorcycles… very impressive! to cross a street is an adventure of the other world, but in the end you take hold the taste to confront thousands of motorbikes trying to avoid you while you walk, even so no one hits nor touches you… An Austrian friend called this the theory of the chaos, that is to say, better not try to put order in the chaos, because surely it would be worse… there are almost no traffic lights… With the Vietnamese girl, aside from the adventure of motorcycling Saigon, we went to the Museum of the American War, as they call the one we know as the War of Vietnam … They also call it the Second War of Indochina… It was the first time that she visited the museum, something that seems incredible to me, but it is part of the present reality of Vietnam. I believe that young people, although a unique party even exists and it is a socialist country, do not stop much to think what happened here… There are sites that seems you to be in the Mercedes of Caracas… Restaurants with decorations high tech… etc. but like in Bangkok you notices the rural thing in the city, also partly because there is a massive exodus from the towns to the great cities like Hanoi and Saigon. The museum is well explanatory of which happened in Vietnam according to the Vietnamese’s. I also went to one species of ethnologic museum of Vietnam. In the end the girl had to go away to work and I had to go to take my airplane to Hanoi, at the north of Vietnam. In Hanoi I went to a zone in the coast called Halong Bay… You have to imagine the Great Savannah, but cover by the sea… Thus it is Halong Bay, where I spent one night in a boat…I follow the story …. The flight from Saigon to Hanoi was 2 hours, remember they are in opposite part; Saigon was the capital of South Vietnam and Hanoi the capital of North Vietnam, before the reunification in 1975 with the "taking" of Saigon. Hanoi is very clean and quite green. In the airport I made plans for my trip to Halong Bay. I paid 35 dollars altogether, a tour that includes transport of Hanoi roundtrip in Van that takes two hours and a half, all the meals (two lunches, a supper in the boat, and a breakfast) and a room in the boat that was super comfortable and with toilet included. Briefly, a gangue… I stayed in a very comfortable hostel, and there I met a couple from the Canary Islands. He had been living in Venezuela when he was 18 years old, in Puerto de la Cruz. That night we went away to take wine and to have supper the three of us in a bar with the best view of Hanoi and from where we could see million of motorcycles went all towards a center, like a spiral or something thus, all managed to pass through a bridge or something like that, I don’t know.…
The following day, Halong Bay, great! I went with a pair of Vietnamese’s who used to live in Hawaii first and later they changed to San Francisco, a pair of Austrians, two French, one couple of Thais, a Taiwanese and a Briton. The Briton was at least of 70 years old, and he had been for a month crossing along all Vietnam, according to him he has a Thai girlfriend. It was super cool, just as the others. It is difficult to describe Halong Bay, but as I told you is like the bulk guayanes but covered by the sea… We crossed everything in a Vietnamese boat, between traditional and modern, that is to say, of wood but without the old candles… The disk was incredible and at sunset there was a Full Moon, everything had been very well prepared!!. That night we passed it taking beer in the boat after the supper, and joking. The Briton was even making jokes of Charles and Camilla… The humorous Vietnamese is specialist in massages in San Francisco, but only of women according to him …
The second day in Halong Bay we went to swim in a beach and to raise a mountain to have a view of everything. The previous day we visited two Caves, one of them was used in the War against the gringos like hospital, since it was totally hidden, well, it is a cave. The third day I went back to Hanoi where I tried to know something, but I did not have time to visit the tomb of Ho Chi Minh… but, what is the importance of seeing a mommies body, equally, not to bother him, I didn’t Esther visit the one of Mao here in Beijing… Of Hanoi I went to Bangkok again and I stayed again in the inn of the noisy and perverted Khaosan Road. They gave me the room that it was near the street. I did not have another option but to take it. I was very light of clothes during my trip because I left most of my things there.. … All the other "mochileros" (people in the same adventure than me) were astonished the light I walked. In addition, wherever I went I bought some t-shirt. In Cambodia I bought three by 4 dollars.

1 comentario:

Anónimo dijo...

Frommer's Review

For a unique high-end experience, book passage aboard the Emeraude -- a copy of a French steamer that once plied these waters in the early 20th century. Certainly the largest boat at 55m (180 ft.), the elegant Emeraude has 38 cabins, a fine-dining outlet, and plenty of room to stretch your legs. The luxury trip comes with a price tag, of course, but the 2-day, 1-night cruise is well worth it.

Leaving Hanoi at 8am, you'll check in at the private Emeraude pier and be shuttled to the boat. Before checking in to your cabin, you'll enjoy welcome drinks and a quick orientation. Compact, as ship cabins always are, onboard rooms are decked out in hardwood, with nice fixtures like air-conditioning, a private reading lamp, slippers for shuffling about the decks, and a tidy, compact bathroom area with toilet, shower, and a separate room for a small sink stand. Everything onboard is retro, which means pleasing hardwood, brass, and fine linens. The oversize wicker chairs on the top deck are cozy, and you'll find shaded areas as well as sun-worshipping space. A casual, friendly atmosphere pervades, especially when the corks start popping.

Dining onboard is a delicious buffet, and most guests find themselves sharing a meal with new friends. Lunch on day 1 is followed by a stop at the Surprise Cave, then an afternoon of cruising and great views of the islands. The boat docks in a quiet harbor and guests have an opportunity to, on their own or with a guide, explore nearby Trinh Nu and Hang Trong, the Virgin Cave and the Cave of the Winds, or take a dip in the bay. The back of the boat is low in the water and there is a sturdy ladder making it easy to get on and off (the adventurous will join the crew for dives off the upper decks). Dinner is a sumptuous affair of fine local cuisine (heavy on seafood) and good Western options. Enjoy drinks on the upper deck as you watch the moonlight glisten off the bay.

Day 2 starts with tai chi classes on the sun deck as a brilliant sunrise paints its colors on the arching canvas of high limestone peaks jutting from the glassy waters. Blissful. After your exercise, tuck in to a hearty Western-style breakfast. The boat returns to the dock by 9:30am, and a direct transfer finds you back in Hanoi by lunchtime. The trip is quite memorable, and a ride on this retro ship, outfitted to the nines, is unique to Halong Bay. The price for the overnight cruise is $290 for a luxury cabin for two and $490 for the one-suite room, but discounts for larger groups are available. Transfer from Hanoi costs $100 for a four-seat vehicle. Check the website at www.emeraude-cruises.com or call the offices at the Press Club in Hanoi (tel. 04/934-0888; fax 04/934-0899).